digital nomad in Fiji

Digital Nomad in Fiji: What It’s Like in a Bucket List Destination

The azure waters, clear blue skies, palm-lined beaches, and five-star resorts place Fiji on many bucket lists. When you’re here to relax, these aspects make the country an ideal choice for a vacation. But as a digital nomad in Fiji, I wasn’t sure what to expect.

The South Pacific doesn’t have stellar reviews with regard to internet speed, quick transportation, or an array of accommodation options. But what I found was so much more. Rather than veg out in one of the many resorts, I took the rare opportunity to travel to the outlying islands and the less-traveled areas of the country that few others ever see. Exploring these regions of Fiji provided a glimpse into the simple life of the islanders. Even with little money, Fijians brim with a warmth and friendliness you seldom find in the complicated, materialistic, and “more money, more problems” society of the West.

With stunning scenery, fresh seafood, and a variety of surprises along the way, Fiji passes the tourist test. But is it a destination for the current or aspiring digital nomad?

Being a Digital Nomad on Fiji Time

Fijians instill the concept of “Fiji Time” in every aspect of living. The idea is that time has little meaning on the islands. Instead of worrying or stressing about timeliness, you should exist in the moment. Little else matters.

While I found that schedules for transportation, dinner reservations, and activities existed, they weren’t always followed. Ferries leaving or arriving an hour or two late, taxis picking you up 20 minutes later than the agreed-upon time, and other scheduled events taking place far later than you anticipated are commonplace.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect of “Fiji Time” is that it can work in your favor or against you. If you arrive late to something, showing a smile and simply saying “Fiji Time” can eliminate any ill will toward you. The locals enjoy that you’re embracing their culture. However, the fact that you never quite know when a bus, ferry, or tour group will leave is exhausting and disconcerting. Fall in love with “Fiji Time” too much, and you might find yourself rebooking tours and transportation. But that’s part of the charm of the islands.

Outside of scheduled activities, “Fiji Time” provided a welcoming outlook on life that I sorely needed. Among the day-to-day deadlines, improving my skills via courses and classes, and other workaday tasks of digital nomads, the notion of “Fiji Time” allowed me to embrace the moments that might otherwise pass me by or go unnoticed.

And this is the true beauty of the country. Intertwined with the idyllic setting, “Fiji Time” provides an outlet from the busyness, pressure, and work-related stresses that can drain you. In this manner, Fiji is more than just a place. It’s an idea.

The Internet Conundrum — The Bane of Being a Digital Nomad in Fiji

Before I plan my next digital nomad destination, I always like to get some idea of what the internet speed will be. This allows me to circumvent frustratingly slow speeds (to some degree), and prepare myself for the inevitabilities of working offline or waiting (and waiting some more) for pages to load. It’s a necessary practice if you’re wandering outside the more oft-traveled nomad destinations.

The South Pacific has garnered a reputation as having some of the slowest internet speeds in the world due to their isolation. However, Fiji is the king of the internet in this part of the globe, coming in at a respectable 59th place in worldwide mobile internet rankings, but just 119th in broadband. When broadband speeds fall two rankings below Niger and one ahead of Azerbaijan, the internet situation is a cause for concern.

On top of these rankings, many spots offered “free Wi-Fi”, but the meaning of “free Wi-Fi” was highly ambiguous. If “free Wi-Fi” means a free connection, I suppose that’s true. But when it’s only available in the lobby and backpackers far and wide get wind of it, “free Wi-Fi” becomes more accurately described as “no internet at all.” Or “free Wi-Fi” could also mean that the internet technically works, but when more than three people stream videos, you may as well do something else.

But “something else” is a dangerous notion as a digital nomad in Fiji. It’s an aspect that can throw you off-task, especially when you realize that sitting on a beach sipping cocktails isn’t all that bad.

Paying for Internet in Fiji

While upscale resorts offer business-quality internet speeds, I wasn’t prepared to plop down $400 to $500 a night to do some work and watch Netflix. So I went with a local sim card. For a nominal fee of FJ$50 (US$23), you can get 50GB of data, local calling, and local texting that lasts for 30 days. In comparison to U.S. mobile providers, it’s a steal. That said, you’ll only have coverage in the larger cities and touristy areas, but it’s good enough to stream videos, upload pictures/videos, and get some work done (at least for a writer).

Workspace? What Workspace?

Between high-end, all-inclusive resorts and the ubiquitous backpacker lodging, few middle-range options are available in Fiji. Unless you’re independently wealthy or don’t mind sharing bathrooms, accommodation is limited. I don’t mind the latter, but one topic that’s off-putting is the lack of a workspace. Although studies have shown the downside of working in bed, I found myself propped up against the headboard almost every day. The lack of a desk or a proper, laptop-friendly workspace is a true problem. So if you aren’t used to searching for an ensuite work desk when you scour hotels or Airbnb listings, start doing so before you book a room in Fiji.

Getting Around in Fiji

As a digital nomad, you shouldn’t replace exploration with work. To do so is to undermine the entire concept of becoming a digital nomad. Therefore, you need to understand some of the subtle differences between the nomad life in Fiji compared to other places.

Transportation is surprisingly reliable and widespread across much of the country, provided you don’t mind riding in open-air buses. That’s right. Because of the mild weather of the islands, many buses don’t have windows, affording you the opportunity to mingle with locals and enjoy the scenery while the wind blows through your hair.

Buses

Most local buses provide one-way service to major shopping and tourist destinations for only FJ$1.11 (US$0.51). I used this for most travel within the major cities such as Nadi, Suva, and Savusavu. Inter-city buses range from FJ$15 to FJ$50 (US$6.83 to US$22.77) depending on where you’re headed.

Car Rentals

Being a free-spirited individual, I always like the classic road trip, so I spent two weeks driving the main road which winds the circumference of the island. At the end, I’m split on whether car rental was worth it. Between cities, I found small villages with no shops or restaurants, taking the mystery and allure of finding a hidden gem out of the equation. In this scenario, taking a bus between hot spots is definitely a more economical decision, and you can focus on the ethereal natural backdrops. Renting a car does have some distinct advantages, giving you opportunities to stop and go for a swim or snorkel. But at an absurd price I’m not willing to divulge, rental cars aren’t a necessity.

If you decide to rent a car, take note. The practice of overbooking car rentals is rampant. I saw many tourists at hotels or at the airport up in arms because the car they booked wasn’t available for hours or even until the next day.

Ferry vs. Airplane

The other travel option I tackled was ferry versus airplane. Flights within the country are somewhat affordable, often ranging from US$100 to $300 return. Nevertheless, for FJ$20 to FJ$40 (US$9 to $US18), a ferry is a thrifty and interesting proposal. With the exception of the Mamanucas and Yasawas on the west coast, every ferry is booked out of the capital city of Suva (on the east coast). The jetty, or port, is about an hour and a half away from Suva, making travel lengthy and exhausting. The car ride there is somewhat devoid of scenery as it veers away from the coast. Factor in whether or not the ferry will be on time or two hours late, and you have an interesting (and sometimes frustrating) journey ahead.

Nevertheless, the ferries do have some of the best insights into local life. Packed to the brim with buses, cars, and trucks hauling logs, cargo, and locals, the ferries often posed a question as to the structural integrity of the vessel.

I thought it better not to consider such things.

Inside, the ship may or may not have a television showing the Hallmark Movie of the Week or a straight-to-DVD offering. With no air conditioning, the voyage is a bit uncomfortable, so a trip onto the deck for a nap is integral. Still, the chance to live as a Fijian was too much to pass up. And with a paltry sum for the ticket, it’s the preferred way to get to places such as Ovalau/Levuka, Vanua Levu/Savusavu, and Taveuni.

The Must-Visits and Experiences of the Digital Nomad in Fiji

While many travelers come to Fiji for sunbathing, lounging, and all-inclusive resorts, the country offers so much more. I had many tiring days of travel to get to some of these locations, but the results were astounding. If you want to kick back on a resort, more power to you. But some places and experiences can’t be missed, I assure you.

Snorkeling with Manta Rays and Reef Sharks

I’m not a diver, and frankly, I struggle with the idea of being 100 feet below the surface of the water. Somehow skydiving and bungee jumping has never deterred me from taking part, but scuba diving has a profound effect on my psyche. Fortunately, Fiji has some of the best snorkeling in the world and is one of the only places to swim with manta rays and reef sharks.

I was lucky. I had heard that many people who tried to swim with the manta rays came up empty-handed. Yet as soon as I jumped out of the boat into the water, I was greeted by seven manta rays. Almost 15-feet wide and about 10-feet long, manta rays are the archetypical gentle giants. Silent, majestic, and angelic, these gigantic creatures brought serenity and calmness I’d never felt before. I’d never done anything like this before, and I’m doubtful I’ll have the chance again.

If swimming next to manta rays makes you nervous, you probably won’t want to venture out with the reef sharks. On a coral outcropping about 30 minutes from the nearest landmass, I put my head in the water. The theme song from “Jaws” repeated in my mind, but as I swam toward my guide, I caught sight of several reef sharks swimming around him without any ill will.

“You can touch their body or tail, but don’t go near the head. They bite, just a little bit,” my guide said to me.

“What the heck does that mean?” I thought, half-freaking out and half-intrigued.

Pushing away the thoughts of a shark bite, I watched these creatures feast off plankton and small fish, uninterested in my presence. If you suffer from galeophobia, this trip isn’t for you, but if you’re brave enough, it’s an awesome adventure.

The Mamanucas and Yasawas

The Mamanucas (pronounced “MA-MA-THU-CUZ”) and Yasawas (“YUH-SAH-WAHS”) are the sources of infinite postcard pictures and the mind’s eye view when most people think of Fiji. Arguably, you won’t find more pristine beaches or dramatic island landscapes anywhere else in the country.

I took the opportunity to visit both of these places on a ferry from Port Denarau, just west of Nadi. What made these islands special was the choose-your-own-adventure travel. If you want to go diving, snorkeling, husk a coconut, party, or do nothing at all, you can. Don’t forget to bring your camera for a make-your-friends-jealous photo shoot. Depending on what you do, a one-week, budget-friendly(?) trip will set you back between US$700 to US$1,000 including food, lodging, and boat transfers. It’s the most-traveled areas of Fiji, but one you shouldn’t miss.

Taveuni

Taveuni was my favorite place in Fiji even though I only spent three days here. This island is one of the most isolated places in the country. To reach Taveuni, you need to board two ferries from the mainland or take one of the longest flights in the country. Free from the hindrances of mega tourism and view-obscuring resorts, Taveuni has sparkling beaches, cascading waterfalls, and some of the best snorkeling in the world.

Without a second thought, I would recommend Taveuni as the top spot in Fiji. Getting here takes some planning, but you won’t find a mix of seclusion and activities like it anywhere else. Among the highlights are snorkeling at the world-famous Rainbow Reef and hiking to the three waterfalls of Baumo National Heritage Park. This is true Fiji at its finest.

Levuka

I’m an avid history buff, so no trip anywhere is complete without a heavy dose of the country’s past. While Suva offers the Fiji Museum (don’t be like me and show up on a Sunday twice to find it closed) and a handful of other historical sites, nothing compares to Levuka. Located on the east coast of Ovalau, Levuka is the former capital of Fiji and the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the country.

As I walked along the main street, I’m immersed in 150 years of history. The original British colonial buildings have been repurposed to house shops, supermarkets, and restaurants, albeit of the slightly rundown variety. On the other side of the street, memorials commemorate the landing of the first missionaries and honor Fijians who fought in World War I on the side of the British.

A worn and sun-faded plaque tells the story of Fijian chiefs renouncing their power to the British, simultaneously giving up their claims to the island while the Union Jack was lifted to the top of the old capital’s flagpole. It’s a sobering reminder of the reach of colonialism, but also the resolve of locals to reclaim their lands. While a day or two was plenty of time to explore, the cultural and historical significance of this island is unique to the South Pacific. Overall, it’s a must-visit.

The Final Verdict on Life as a Digital Nomad in Fiji

While Fiji can’t boast superior internet speeds or a vast-reaching digital nomad network, I find that it’s a place — at least to some degree — that’s conducive to the digital nomad lifestyle. Endless snorkeling, divine sunsets, and friendly locals give the islands a palpable warmness. Even if you have to wait to download a file or stream a video, just remember: you’re on Fiji Time.

Have you been to Fiji as a digital nomad or a tourist or have you always wanted to go? Connect with Virtual Vocations on FacebookTwitterLinkedInInstagram, and YouTube to share your advice. We’d love to hear from you! 



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